The First Time I Saw a Mountain (And Why I Nearly Quit)
I remember when I first thought of doing a winter trek and my school friends were making a plan to go visit Brahmatal Trek, back then trekking was really a luxury and only few of us used to do it. Being a 19 year old thinking about scaling up in the himalayas and being alone in the wild with my group gave me a lot of chills. I looked at my big rucksack while I got down from my train at Kathgodam railway station, “Did I make a mistake” was my exact thought.
And to be honest, when we were on our way to the base village – Lohajung, the fear disappeared as I saw the most beautiful landscapes on the road. The best feeling was when we reached the base village – all of us were welcomed by the snow.
This was an experience I know all of us feel, that unknown feeling of how it will turn out to be and what kind of people we will meet. Everyone wants a macbook wallpaper clicked on the trail of the beautiful snowfall and the mountains but only few make it to the unknown.
Then why don’t we start from the Brahmatal Trek? It’s basically winter trekking through a “Greatest Hits.” In essence, it has it all: deep forests, frozen lakes, and you will be in awe of 7,000-meter peaks that will make you feel incredibly small in the nicest way. However, timing is crucial. If you get it right, it’s like magic. If you get it wrong, you are merely taking a stroll in a cloud of mud.
When Exactly Should You Go? (The Short Version)
For those of you who are only interested in the quick version and are gearing up to book your flights, January and February will most likely give you the snowiest conditions. If you’d rather have perfect, crystal-clear views and less biting cold, then December would be ideal.
But rarely are things that simple in life, aren’t they? Let’s analyze the situation according to the ‘vibes’ of each month.
1. December: The "Golden Hour" Month
In my view, the period from early to mid-December is the most grossly undervalued time. The sky has a blue that is so intense that it hardly looks real. Because there is no more moisture from the monsoons and the heavy winter haze has not yet appeared, visibility is outstanding (10/10).
- The weather is crisp (not too cold)– enjoy the warm sunlight even while sitting by a frozen lake
- Outstanding visibility with the landscapes bathed in warm sunlight; the sky is deep blue
- The freshest snow dusts the high peaks and the vegetation is still green
2. January: The Winter Wonderland (Full Narnia Mode)
At this time, Brahmatal trek transforms into a perfect picture. If you want the forest floor covered in a thick white blanket, there is no other option.
- The temperature will be very low-balaclava, gloves, thermal wear-ready
- The highest chance of heavy fresh snow on an already snow-covered ground
- Less daylight hours but each sunray is powerful
3. February: The Snow Record Holder
What is quite surprising is that February often has more snow accumulated than January. After all, the two-month storms have been gathering strength. The lakes (Brahmatal and Bekaltal) are almost certainly frozen solid.
- The temperature will become a little warmer- though it will still be below freezing
- The longest day of the trek; enough time for the best scenic sunset and sunrise spots
- Still enough snow to play and enjoy the winter season
Why Brahmatal? (And not, say, Kedarkantha?)
Well, you’ve certainly seen Kedarkantha on Instagram more than Brahmatal trek. It’s the celebrity of winter treks and everyone knows about it. But Brahmatal? It’s more like the cool, indie alternative.
The primary advantage is the ridge walk. Most trekking trails take you through a valley, but Brahmatal is mostly a ridge trail. So, instead of just getting a glimpse of a mountain at the end, you’ll be looking at the whole Himalayan mountain range for hours during your walk. One side will have the Khamila range and the other the Garhwal Himalaya is a picturesque backdrop. It’s literally a visual feast.
Furthermore, two lakes. Bekaltal (covered by oaks) and Brahmatal (exposed). Witnessing a high altitude lake frozen over is something you will never forget.
The Reality Check: What It’s Actually Like
Let’s just talk frankly for a second. We all have seen those perfect edited reels, but what is the real “human” experience?
The "Uphill" Battle
The first hiking day after Lohajung is a bit steep. You’re going higher and your lungs will loudly tell you that it’s been three months since your last workout. I personally remember thinking “This is crazy, why am I doing this? Could be sitting in a cafe right now.” But then the forest appears after not even five-mins of walking in nature. The rhododendrons and oaks surround you, the air is earthy and pine-scented, you become so relaxed that the city feels a million miles away.
The Campsite Life
Tent life is being a master. You’ll likely be squished together with your friend (or stranger who will become friend), sleeping in a mummy bag that kind of resembles a big burrito.
Suggestion: Before going to bed, put your hiking socks inside the sleeping bag so that they become warm by the time you put them on next day. Wearing cold socks at 6:00 AM is the worst feeling. I’m telling you this from my own experience.
The "Toilet" Situation
Since you’re a novice, let me be straightforward: it’s a dry hole in a tent. It’s not posh. But really? By day two you will have forgotten about it. Besides, most of the time when you are staring at the toilet tent from a distance the view is breathtaking and better than any 5-star hotel bathroom.
Fitness: Do You Need to be an Athlete?
Fitness is not the most important thing you need while trekking but the ability and mindset to walk for a really long time matters in a trek.
Brahmatal is a difficult “Moderate” trek. You are not required to have technical skills in climbing but your endurance level should be good. If you can do a 5km jog in 30-35 minutes without being totally exhausted, then you are more than fine. If you can’t… Well, you should start using stairs today. Your knees will definitely be grateful for this later.
The biggest issue is not your legs; it is in the altitude. Lohajung is at approximately 7,600 ft and the highest point you will be going to is 12,250 ft. The air is less dense there. You may even find tying your shoelaces difficult as your breath would be short. That is absolutely normal! Just remember to walk slowly and steadily like a turtle.
Packing Essentials: Don’t Be That Guy
The time I saw a chap trying to hike in jeans was shocking. I hope you are not that guy. Jeans absorb water; they become heavy and cold and they remain cold. Here is a list of what you really need to Pack.
- Weather-proof and insulated jacket
- 2-3thermal inner layers
- Woolen hats and gloves
- Trekking pants
A Note on "The Mountain Bug"
Day 3 or so, something comes over you. You have survived the harsh cold, you have learned how to use trekking poles, and you are sitting at Brahmatal lake. The silence is so loud that it is almost palpable. And there above you, the Milky Way is brightly visible, there are no city lights that are washing it out this time.
You get the idea right there and then why people do this. It is not just about “the summit” or the picture for the ‘gram. It is about the fact that for four days, your only tasks were walking, eating, and looking at the horizon. It is a kind of mental reset which is not possible anywhere else.
Final Logistics (The Boring But Important Stuff)
- Permits: Some treks require permits, but Brahmatal does not.
- Cost: Make sure you budget for guides, food, accommodation, etc.
- Duration: Plan for a 4-5 day trek depending on your pace and time available.
Is it safe?
In general, it is safe. Brahmatal is not an unknown trail. Nevertheless, always refrain from hiking alone. So, you must be with a trekking company that is registered or a local guide from Lohajung. Weather can be quite unpredictable – one moment sunny, another snowy. You need somebody with you who understands the weather the way the shepherds do.
Conclusion
Should you see Brahmatal?
If you are longing for getting out of the house, if you feel fed up with the same old-trips-at-the-weekend and if you want to test your limits, then the answer is: yes. Definitely.
Brahmatal is very gentle to novelties, yet it does not deprive you of great rewards. You will literally fall in love with the mountains after being there. Just keep in mind: travel light, take deep breaths and constantly look around in awe.
